Actually, the trains were fantastic, comfortable, easy to use and very clean. As was Rome's subway. The train ride from Venice to Rome was made all the better by the fact that I got to sit in the same seating group with not only my husband but a darling little Italian girl (about 4 years?) and her mother. As she drew in her coloring book she chatted away. Her mom ran through numbers in Spanish with her as well as practicing some English phrases ('Natalia ate cake' was recited very precisely many times...have to begin with the essentials).
(pic- Olers and Eyres on our hotels rooftop terrace in Florence-Brunelleschi's Duomo behind Brandon's head)
In Rome we, of course, visited the essentials (Vatican including St. Peter's and the Sistine chapel along with their many collections, St. Paul's Cathedral, the Colosseum and surrounding remnants, Trevi Fountain, and the Pantheon) which were fascinating, but what I remember most were interactions with the locals. We had a hotel car drive us many places and the driver had many opinions to share. We asked about driving in Rome, which at first seemed frightening, but by the end seemed more like a seamless river of traffic. There were very few lights downtown and some roundabouts, but many intersections are just open and no one stops, cars and pedestrians just fit in and weave together. Our driver said (you have to say it with the accent), " American drivers! They stop-a at all the lines (crosswalks) and wait-a for everyone to pass and stay in straight line-a! It take-a forever! You never get anywhere!" Then later Berlusconi came up in conversation and I mistakenly called him 'president'. The driver about flipped out..."Berlusconi is crazy! If he ever got elected president I would be gone! I leave Italy!" Really a fun drive. It's amazing how many of those little smart cars you can fit across a road that appeared to be only 2 lanes! (we counted 5).

There were too many highlights to mention them all. I'll just name a few
FLORENCE: Beautiful, very walkable city. Michelangelo's David was definitely the most impressive thing I saw. Really stunning to see it's massiveness and strength he exuded from the marble.
The Midici's Pitti Palace is huge and lovely, and was located at the base of a hill right outside our hotel. What I remember are stairs...stairs upon stairs. My legs are so toned right now. Oddest thing of the trip was when we walked through the gardens on the hill behind the Pitti Palace. There is a large building on
(pic above-Florence's oldest bridge on the Arno River. Originally where meat vendors were, until the powerful Medici's decided they didn't like passing the smell on the way to their palace so they were kicked out and replaced with jewelry shops. pic below-Brandon on grounds behind Pitti Palace)
the property (I think held a minor museum...can't remember) that we walked up to because we wanted to see the view of the city. We were disappointed upon arriving at the building that all the area around was fenced off. The note to explain why said that 2 healthy people in 2004 and just a yr or 2 later had fallen down dead at exactly the same spot on the property. And also that many dogs were reported to have 'precipitated' there as well. Until the cause of the deaths and 'precipitations' were discovered, the area was to be closed. Obviously some kind of translation error there...
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| view out bedroom window of Venice apartment |
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| Venice in the Rain |
VENICE: Lovely, quiet (no cars). I loved just putting the map down and just wandering in Venice. You would go down alleys only a few feet wide that would lead to charming little shops. Got lost a few times, but you don't get far before hitting a canal at a dead-end and realizing you need to retrace your steps. We did the 'secret itineraries' tour at the Doge's Palace where we were told the story of Casanova, his escape from being a political prisoner there, as his return when hired as a state spy. Really fun tour. Also on that tour got to peer into the attic above the large room that I believe was for legislative type sessions (built I think around 14th century). The ceiling was cleverly suspended with bolts and wooded beams that had been treated against rot so they were basically petrified. Because of this the guide noted the absence of any spiders or insects...no webs. Interesting I thought. Up to this point in the trip, no one had given us too hard a time about not ordering any wine. We had our last dinner in Venice in a nicer restaurant on the bay. When we declined wine the waiter
smiled and with a little wink said, 'What, you all are going to be DRIVING home?' (remember, no cars in Venice). Made us all chuckle.
Favorite gelato: meringue, coconut
Favorite appetizer(was everywhere): cantaloupe and proscuitto
Favorite dish: Pear and Gorgonzola ravioli
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| modern glass exhibit we saw on Murano |
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Jeanine,Carrie and Brandon on the island of Murano by Venice
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ROME: Already mentioned some from Rome. Here our hotel was a little more out of the really touristy areas which was nice. A little harder to find gelato but enjoyed the atmosphere of the restaurants more. Most places the waiters didn't even attempt speaking Italian to you...they just went right to English and many signs and menus were in both. I still threw my limited Italian out there just for fun. Surprisingly I was understood most of the time. My only negative encounter was with a postal worker when I misunderstood what I owed and I got yelled at. Perhaps postal workers have it hard in Italy, too... My favorite restaurant here had a divine antipasto type buffet for only 8 Euro (tax and tip were generally included). It had the expected assorted veges (olives, sweet peppers, mushrooms, etc in olive oil) and cheeses as well as an assortment of flaky savory dishes and quiches. I was in heaven.
Italy notes: there will be no butter for your bread, no dressing for your salad (except oil and vinegar), and you will pay for water and asked 'gas or no gas?' when ordering. Go with 'no'. And there will be heads on your shrimp. And any other seafood you order. I did eat a golf ball sized fried octopus with all the legs very much visible and actually really enjoyed it. The sardines on the other hand...
Only hiccup on the subway was caused by my being left handed in a right handed world. You know how before you get to the trains you come up to a line of gates and have to put your ticket in before each individual gate will open? Well I put the ticket in with my left hand and the gate in front of me didn't open. Took me just a second to realize that I had opened the gate to the left. With swift and I must say, very graceful movement ;) I got over and through the gate before it closed. I heard some chuckles and then an older italian gentleman clapping as he came through after me cheering 'Bravo, Bravo!' I gave my bows and we were off the train.
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| At Trevi Fountain in Rome |
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| Carrie, Jeanine and Jeff at Colosseum |
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| Wife in the Kitchen (Pompeii) |
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| Mt Vesuvius |
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| My fried octopus |
Although we spent an extra 3 1/2 hours in Dulles Airport, actually sitting on our plane through a lightning storm, and ended up missing our connection then in Denver and got to spend the night there it was overall a great trip. And the beds in our Embassy Suites in Denver were like a cloud. In the Zurich airport the service was phenomenal. In security the lady just laughed and empathized with us when she asked if we had any 'weapons or sharp items' and Carol (Mom) burst out 'No! They took them all away from us in Rome!' (she had 2 small scissors confiscated that were permitted in the US). The airport was clean and cheerful. Even had those Ricola horns blowing and cows mooing on the trams. Then we got to the line for security in America and the workers called out, 'If you think your line is going too slow it's because you aren't prepping your things to go through (the x-ray) fast enough!' Welcome to America!